Head South: monks cowl and didima gorge (drakensberg mountains, kwaZulu-natal)

The Drakensberg Mountains are a stunning wilderness that has protected and provided for thousands upon thousands of generations of humans. They functioned as a boundary for the Basutu people who were defending themselves from an encroaching and militaristic Zulu population and later the encroaching and militaristic Boers, not to mention the English. Before this recent history they were home to Khoi Khoi or Khoi San people. The evidence of the Khoi Khoi can be found in really cool rock art--some of which we found and is pictured below.

Finding hidden caves is probably one of the coolest aspects of the Drakensberg. They are on maps, but that does not mean you are going to find them. We hiked far and wide to find two caves and spent the night happily tucked away behind a waterfall for one night. The cave was so protective and peaceful that we spent about 20 hours hanging out, eating, and sleeping before moving on.

The grass is stunning--more recently burned sections actually look greener.

There are plentiful streams and waterfalls as it is the rainy season. Getting caught in one thunderstorm taught us how quickly the waters can rise. We ended up saving a German couple from possible demise after a particularly powerful thunderstorm brought streams from 5 cm deep, to 1 meter deep in a matter of minutes after pelting us with marble-sized hail. If you're wondering what the hell we were doing we were too. That was our last hike up the big mountain. Until next time!

Disclaimer: The pictures are not in chronological order--maybe I'll take the time to rearrange them later.

This is one of a few of the Ranger Cabins. So, don't think they're used very much anymore. This is called the Ranger Station on the map. Gives you a good idea of the politics in the region. If someone builds a public building near you that means you are allowed to harvest anything valuable from that structure...including its roof.

This nearly hidden road through a swamp reminded me of Frodo walking through the swamp of the ancient battlefield where there were dead elves and orcs. The Drakensberg was also an area that inspired curiosity and imagination in a young JRR Tolkien.

A protea with lots of cool bugs on the inside (black squiggly things).

This became a gushing torrent after the thunderstorm a few days later.

It's a party!

I couldn't have known Jennifer was taking a picture if I made that face, ha ha.

We crossed this holding hands in bare feet with Chemix, our French friend. Then on the way back since our boots were squishing with water we just walked across it with our boots on. It made it up to about 1 meter deep--maybe a little less.

Locust friend!

One guy later told us about his adventure body-surfing these rapids and taking chutes under rocks to follow the flow of water. It sounded crazy and stupid, but power to him.

Up on the escarpment, now where is that Elands cave hiding?

I think that rock overhang in the middle left of the picture is the best candidate for where Eland's cave is. Supposedly the paintings are exquisite because the entrance is so small. You just don't have too much time to find it when you hike in for 4-5 hours and you have to hike out for 3-4.

Amazing how this rainforest-like vegetation grows in certain areas--this is called Didima Gorge and is a very special place (one of many) in the Drakensberg.

The paint is a mix of blood and iron ore (ish) rock, plus a few other things. Egg is also a likely ingredient, but I don't know for sure.

This is our friend Chemix. He is a journalist from France. He runs like a mountain goat--he did 40 km in the mountains one day (that is more than a full marathon while doing more than a mile of vertical as well). We would find him on the road and give him a lift to the camp or hiking, but we certainly couldn't catch him if he took off running. He helped to push us to find the Leopard Cave with the cool paintings.

Huh, this is the only picture that hasn't flipped to the correct side automatically.

Some beautiful weather to start our two day hike!

When you're hiking up a mountain with a big pack you can't make your shorts short enough.

Finally found the correct trail (notice how light it is compared to the previous one). This is the route to Zulu cave and other campers were lost a few nights before we stayed there.

Swimming at the bottom of a beautiful waterfall...not too bad.

The entrance is concealed, but behind the tiny waterfall in the background is a giant cave that could accommodate at least fifty people if you were to set out sleeping pads/cots. Many more if you were just cowboying it like the Brodie twins do as a natural pastime.

I'm probably looking for Agates and Jennifer has been waiting for five minutes. Must hurry up!

When it starts to hail, you know you're in for it.

That small stream in the foreground was the trail before 4-12 inches of water started rushing down it and tearing it apart.

The water from the waterfall just to the right of Jennifer in this picture is shooting out like a fire hose. It looks small with the wide-angle lens, but it was very impressive. I should have pulled out the long lens! The German man is walking down just in front of Jennifer--happy we made it over those rushing streams!